After climbing the escalators at the entrance of the museum we reach the second floor and the beginning of the museum. We are first greeted by a statue of a soldier (兵士の像) along which can be found the quote from Chinese philosopher Xunzi which is the origin for the name of the museum. That same quote is displayed prominently at the top of each page of this web site. The English translation next to the statue reads,
"When a gentleman settles down, he must choose his neighbors carefully. When a gentleman engages in social relationships, he must seek the company of scholars."
While one might offer an alternative Japanese and English translation, it is certainly a beautiful gem of Chinese ancient wisdom worth considering as a vistor walks through the halls of Yushukan. After passing more statues and a few cannons the first exhibit room confronts the visitor with a stunning display of hanging poems, a sword, and other objects perfectly lighted to set the mood. One of the poems reads:
| We shall die in the sea, We shall die in the mountains, In whatever way, We shall die beside the Emperor, Never turning back. -Otomo no Yakamochi |
海ゆかば みづくかばね 山ゆかば草むすかばね 大君の辺にこそ死なめかへりみはせじ -大伴家持 |
Before entering the main section of the museum devoted to modern Japanese history there is one more small room dedicated to the history of Japan's older military traditions (日本の武の歴史) where some armor and a few swords accompany short descriptions of the last few hundred years of Japan.
Room 3: Meiji Restoratin (明治維新)
Entering into the main exhibits of the museum dedicated to modern Japanese history the first image we are greeted with is a large display with a map of Asia under the heading, The Western Powers Encroach on Asia. The map is covered in European and American flags with arrows pointing to the Asian countries which the West had invaded or colonized. In an exhibit room dedicated to the Meiji restoration, the first image we are greeted with is a map of Western imperialism. To the left of the map is a timeline, with the dates marked on blue and green diamonds. Blue denotes those events which affected Japan while Green represents other acts of the imperialists such as the Opium wars, and war in Java with the Dutch.
The next displays focus on Japan's own experience with foreigners with a section on Perry's Expedition: Demands End to Isolationism and The Appearance of Foreign Ships in Japanese Waters where it is noted that "their crews demanded and sometimes stole supplies." We hear more about Japan's reaction to the newcomers in displays entitled Preparing for National Emergencies, Strengthening Coastal Defences, and in another poem:
| I hope for the peace for my people while ships from far lands weigh on my heart - Koemai |
Soon we learn that the reaction to the foreigners was decisive in the Meiji restoration, "...an anti-foreign movement (whose slogan was Revere the Emperor! Expel the Barbarians!) emerged, which would eventually result in the overthrow of the Shogunate and the restoration of direct imperial rule." This is followed by sections dedicated to various issues related to the Revere the Emperor! Expel the Barbarians! (尊王攘夷) campaign. A row of black pillars have illuminated titles in a beautiful row of displays highlighting events of the period. Other sections in this room include Alliance Between the Imperial Court and the Shogunate, Revere the Emperor! Destroy the Shogunate!, Return of Political Rule to the Emperor, and Civil War 1868-70.
Room 4: The Satsuma Rebellion
This room's title does not indicate the wide variety of displays found here. The center of the room is occupied by a beautiful glass display depicting the five articles of the Imperial Rescript and the establishment of the new capital. Also of note in this room is a display dedicated to the Iwakura Mission where we are told that,
| "The Meiji Government postponed the modification of unfavorable terms in treaties which were scheduled for renewal in 1872 opting instead to deepen relations with the other signatories to those treaties." | 「明治政府は、当面の外交懸案である明治5年に迫った条約改正を延期し、条約締結国との友好を深め、併せて各国の諸制度を調査研究するため・・・派遣した。」 |
There are also sections here for Modernization Policies, Modernization of the Military System, Samurai Rebellions, and the Birth of the Modern Nation. In one small display there is mention of Japan's expedition to Taiwan:
| "54 shipwrecked Okinawan fishermen were killed by locals. As a result of negotiations with the Qing government the Japanese military was deployed to Taiwan in what was their first expedition overseas." (originally no English translation) | 「台湾に漂着した沖縄の漁民54にんが現地住民に殺害され、清国との談判の結果、日本軍の初めての海外遠征として台湾へ出兵した。」 |
Room 5: Yasukuni Shrine (靖国神社の創祀)
This small room has a piece of the shrine's roof on display, opposite a timeline recording the history of the shrine and the martyrs who are enshrined in it.
| "As the first to establish a modern nation-state in East Asia, Japan takes great care to worship the martyrs and war dead at Yasukuni Shrine who laid its foundations." (originally no English translation) | 「東アジアでいち早く近代国家体制を確率した日本は、その礎となった殉難者、戦死者を靖国神社に手厚く奉齋したのである。」 |
Imperial Family Exhibits Room (特別陳列室)
This special room, which "occupies the most honored location in the Yushukan, at the rear of the main building," has tiles on the the ceiling and a stained glass skylight allowing the sun's rays to "fill the gallery with a brilliant radiance." Here can be found a number of displays honoring the emperors of modern Japan. There is a clear emphasis on the Meiji emperor. The Meiji emperor, who is pictured in the center of the room, is flanked on either side by the Taisho and Showa emperors and there are displays for the Imperial Rescript on Education and the Imperial Rescript to Soldiers and Sailors.
Room 6: The Sino-Japanese War 1894-5 (日清戦争)
While this room is dedicated to the Sino-Japanese War, it serves a number of other purposes. In many ways, the room's narrative prepares the visitor for the climax of the museum which is, without any doubt, the Russo-Japanese war in Room 7. The triumphant military music and sounds of battle booming from Room 7 can be heard all the way from Room 4 and past it anywhere on the second floor of the museum. Along with being told of Japan's Building of a Modern Military Force, the visitor is told about The Korean Problem (The Japanese says 朝鮮半島情勢 which simply means the "situation" on the Korean peninsula, but refers to problem or 問題 in the body of the text). In this section, which notes that, "China considered Korea its vassal state and interfered constantly with its affairs," there is a clear portrayal of Korea as a slave of an aggressive Qing empire while Japan's own modernization influenced Korea's attempts towards "independence."
A display labelled the Sino-Japanese War Operation Plan goes into the details of the war itself and Japan's swift victory. When the war was over, there was the Treaty of Shimonoseki:
| "With the treaty of Shimonoseki, Korea achieved true independence, which Japan had long hoped for." | 「下関条約によって、朝鮮の独立は確実なものとなった。日本は長年の念願を果たした．．．」 |
We also learn here and in the next displays on the Tripartite Intervention and Vengeance at all Costs (臥薪嘗胆) about Russia's robbing Japan of its spoils in the war:
| "The Japanese people were angered by Russia's meddling and Japan's subsequent acquiescence to the Tripartite Interference." | 「三国干渉への屈服は日本の実力を改めて思い起こさせた。国民はロシアの介入に憤激し、あらゆる苦難を忍んで、この屈辱を晴らすをいう決意を持つに至った。」 |
There is also a chronlogy of the war and more detailed info displayed, as well as a display dedicated to Boxer Rebellion when Japan and other Western powers acted against the rebellion and the Qing dynasty. Here we learn more of the evil deeds of the Russians even as Japan once again displays its own dignity, "Japanese soldiers were respected by the residents of Peking and war correspondents for their military prowess and discipline, in contrast to Russian troops who looted wherever they went."
Finally, before entering into the flashing lights and sound of the room next door, there are a few more small displays on Shiba Goro and the Peking Protocol. Throughout this room there is very little discussion of the causes of the conflict with the Qing empire or for the coming conflict against Russia, beyond the deep felt resentment against Russia for the Tripartite Intervention. Regardless, the visitor is left with the impression that Japan is constantly being thrust into conflicts that are beyond its control, their inevitability never explained.
Room 7: The Panoramic Exhibits of the Russo-Japanese War (日露戦争パノラマ館)
While a comparatively small room, the Russo-Japanese War gets its own documentary presentation beamed against the wall. This documentary, which only lasts a few minutes, details the key moments in the war and the prowess of the Japanese navy. A row of white plastic pillars, with a picture and name of important Japanese military figures is lined up under the wall which shows the documentary. As the various military figures appear in the narrative or are represented by a particular battle, the respective pillars light up. Throughout images of Japan's battle flag, of enthusiastic strings of characters with phrases like, "Inspired the World" float across the photos and other images displayed. Various statistics are provided to show how Japan was outnumbered and outgunned in the face of the Russian empire.
As for static content, there is in fact very little. There is a short summary of the war and a timeline provided in front of the row of pillars. Behind this, there are two uniforms, one each for a high ranking navy and army officer (vice-admiral and lieutenant general, respectively). The room is almost completely devoid of any analysis of the war's causes or results, although the latter are described in more detail in the first display of the next room.